Building
a DS Powered Telescope Mount ??
The biggest advantage of building a DS powered
telescope mount is the ability to use Meade's Autostar controller. The
Autostar controller will automatically "goto"
and track a selected object from it's huge database. This database can
easily be updated from the internet. To build
a DS powered mount consist of adapting the DS motor assemblies to
drive a set of worm gears. The Autostar uses
Alt / Az ratios ( these are just numbers ) to determine how far to move
or how much to turn the worm gears to place the
selected object in the field of view of your eyepiece. These ratios
can easily be changed to allow for different
gearing arrangements. Click Here to learn how to
change the ratios
Please remember there are limitations on how well a DS powered mount
can perform but with a good set of worms
and worm gears, a decent bearing system and a lot of patience a DS
powered mount can be as accurate as an LX 90.
Parts Needed
2 DS Electronic Motors:
You don't need a whole DS telescope to get these. You can purchase a Meade
492 Electronic
Control System for around $ 130. This kit includes 2 DS electronic
motors , terminal block , 2-22
tooth nylon gears that drive the worm shaft , and the 60 tooth worm and
worm gears used on the
DS mounts. Plus the kit includes a small hand controller with direction
buttons. This is not the same
as the Autostar controller.
Autostar Controller:
I use the 497 Autostar controller. The 495 will work fine also.
( Check out E-Bay for some good prices )
Worm Gears:
Update added:
Here are some nice looking HDPE
made by Andy Saulietis . I have not tried these
gears yet but I plan to with my next project.
This is the hard question! I now use bronze gears from WM Berg .
I have also
used nylon worm gears from 12 volt automotive window motors on the smaller
mounts.
Will the new ETX 60 AT or ETX 70 AT work ??
I have been asked many times if the new ETX 60
AT or 70 AT will work for building a mount. I have never seen the insides
of these scopes other than pictures posted at Mike Weasners web site. They
are quite a bit different from the DS models.
Would take some work but I think it could be
done ( If anyone wants to donate a AT I'll be happy to see what I
can do!! )
What size worm gears do I need ?
The original Meade DS and ETX models use
a very small 60 tooth 48 pitch worm gear with an OD of 1.25"
With such a small OD these gears are very hard
to work with. Remember the larger the worm gear the better the accuracy
will be. This is because no matter how well the
mount is built there will be slack in the gear train somewhere. Either
from the worm gear not being perfectly centered or from the bearing system.
With using small worm gears this "error factor" is
amplified as to with the larger worm gears it
is not as noticeable. In theory a perfectly built mount with with no slack
using 60 tooth gears would be as accurate as a mount with 180 tooth gears
In other words one degree of error on a 60 tooth gear will show up 3 times
worse than the same amount of error when using a 180 tooth gear.
So what does all this mean ?
The larger and heavier the OTA the larger the gears need to be. Please
note that as the
gears get larger the slower the slewing speeds
will be. A mount using 120 tooth worm gears will slew at half the speed
of
the original DS or ETX models. And 180 tooth
gear will only slew at 1/3 rd the original speed. This also means a lot
more battery power will be needed.
From my experiences here's what I would recommend:
Small mounts up to 4" OTA: 60 to 96 tooth worm gears
Medium 4" up to 8" OTA 96 to 120 tooth worm gears
Large 8" + OTA 120 to 180 (or larger) tooth worm gears.
180 tooth worm gears are as largest gears I have
used to date. These are some large gears that provide a lot of torque
but have very slow slewing speeds.
Mount Materials ?
All of my mounts are built from aluminum that
I purchased from a local salvage yard. My larger Dob mount is a combination
or
wood and aluminum.
The large aluminum pieces for the mounts were
cut using a 10” radial arm saw and 60 tooth carbide tipped (woodworking)
blade. Safety glasses and gloves are a must. By cutting very slowly (to
avoid kickback) even thick aluminum can be cut easily. I also apply a lubricating
spray (WD-40) to the aluminum piece and the blade before each cut. A jigsaw
equipped with a metal cutting blade was used for cutting the smaller aluminum
pieces and for the rounded cuts. A shot of lubricating spray applied every
inch or so (depending on the thickness of the material being cut) while
cutting will greatly increase cutting time and increase the blade life.
Another option for a DS powered mount is to do
as Peter Wallner did. Click
Here for Peter's web site.
Still under construction so check back soon
Thanks,
Steve Bedair
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This information is provided for personal use only
Copyright 2000 Steve Bedair